Wednesday, April 20, 2005

 

On the Trail of the Incas

I went to see the doctor today at the 'Solidarity Hospital' parked outside Chorrillos' 'Metro' supermarket. It's a hospital consisting of a dozen white well-equipped trailers donated by Luis Castañeda, the mayor of Lima who's running for presidency next year. The quality of service is actually much better than in any of the public hospitals or health centers ('postas') around.
And it was about time.. all who've spent time with me since last december have probably made remarks about me coughing all the time. Man.. I was already thinking that I've got tuberculosis and that's the first thing the doctor wanted to check as well. Fortunately, the x-rays showed that it wasn't the case. Now I'm again on antibiotics and hopefully this time I'll get rid of this damn cough.

After the lung check, I finally went and bought today 'The Conquest Of The Incas' by John Hemming, the standard reference for any scholar of the Inca history. I did this after reading Hugh Thomson's 'The White Rock: Exploration of the Inca Heartland' - a book given to me as a present by Susan, a dear member of my last tour group. I must say that reading the 'White Rock' changed the way I perceive the Vilcabamba region and the Inca Trail which to my shame I have to admit I haven't managed to do yet, and reawakened the interest I have in the exploration of this country and it's history. Suddenly I found myself grieving to learn and discover more which is funny because I was already starting to think that I've had enough of Perú and it could be time to move on. Now I can't wait to do The Inca Trail and all the other inca trails that exist: Choquequirao, Lares, Espiritu Pampa, Takesi Trail and more! I'm actually happy I will do the Trail after first reading about it properly and I recommend for anyone planning it to do the same.


This weekend we're planning to go to Huánuco for holidays with Silvia's cousin and her boyfriend. My 'Footprint' guide states that the Huallaga valley where it's located, "is the country's main coca-growing area, with both drug-trafficking and guerilla activity" and that the region should be avoided at the present. Well, the guidebook is four years old and fortunately lot of things have changed for the better. Yet, it's guaranteed to be void of any tourism, has some stunning scenery and also some of the oldest archaeological sites in South America, which haven't been even properly researched. I can't wait to go and explore!
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